India Didn’t Give Me a Map. It Gave Me Permission to Trust the One I Already Had.
Dusk was setting in. I’d turned my boat around to back-paddle upstream, giving my forward stroke muscles a rest, when something enormous coasted across the river from left to right. It moved so slowly, so strangely, that my brain genuinely couldn’t process it. I actually cried out: “What the heck is that?!” It landed on
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